Repair notes
Wrapping Bar Tape Without Making a Complete Mess of It
I've rewrapped my handlebars maybe a dozen times now, and the first few looked absolutely terrible. Wrinkles everywhere, gaps showing the bare bar, and ends that wouldn't stay put. It's one of those jobs that looks simple when you watch someone else do it, but your first attempt will probably be humbling. Here's what I've learned out in my freezing garage, mostly through trial and error.
What You Actually Need and Some Prep Work
You need bar tape, obviously, and it usually comes with finishing tape to secure the ends. Most sets include bar end plugs too. Before you start, remove your old tape completely and clean off any sticky residue with rubbing alcohol or just scrape it with your thumbnail if you're impatient like me. Check the bars for any sharp edges or cable guides that might tear the new tape. I once sliced through brand new tape because I didn't file down a burr on the bar end. Also, if you're wrapping drop bars, decide now whether you're going over or under the brake lever hoods. I go under because it gives a cleaner transition, but either way works if you're consistent. Do this in a room with decent heat if you can, because some tape gets stiff and harder to work with when it's cold, though I usually ignore my own advice on this one.
Starting at the Bottom and Getting the Angle Right
Start at the bar ends, not up by the stem. Most tape has a slight diagonal cut on one end, and that's your starting end. Leave about half an inch hanging past the bar end, which you'll tuck in later. The trick that finally clicked for me is the overlapping angle. You want about a quarter to a third overlap with each wrap, and you need to keep tension consistent. Not death grip tight, but firm enough that there aren't loose spots. The angle should be diagonal enough that you're making progress up the bar but not so steep that you leave gaps. I usually aim for about a thirty degree angle, though I'm just eyeballing it. Wrap toward the front of the bike at the bottom, so when you're riding and gripping the bars, your hands push into the overlap, not against it. This prevents it from unraveling over time.
The Hood Area Where Everything Gets Complicated
The brake lever hood is where most people's wrapping jobs fall apart, mine included for a long time. When you reach the lever clamp, you have a choice. You can do a simple wrap straight through, or you can do a figure eight for extra padding and security. I usually just do one extra wrap around the clamp bolt area from underneath, which gives a little more thickness where I actually grip during climbs. The important part is keeping tension as you transition. Don't pull so hard that you stretch the tape thin, but don't let it go slack either. After you pass the hoods, you're home free. Just keep that same overlap going up toward the stem. When you get close to where you want to end, usually an inch or so from the stem, cut the tape at an angle with scissors or a utility knife. The angled cut tucks under better than a straight cut. Then wrap the included finishing tape around it tightly. I do at least three wraps with the finishing tape to make sure it holds.
Finishing the Ends and Fixing Mistakes
Go back to the bar ends where you left that half inch hanging off. Tuck it into the bar end, then push the plug in firmly. Some plugs are expansion types that grip the inside of the bar, others just friction fit. If your plugs won't stay in, wrap a small piece of electrical tape around them to make them slightly wider, or use a tiny dab of grease to help them grip. Now step back and look at your work. If there are small gaps or wrinkles, you can sometimes fix them by carefully unwrapping a section and doing it again. I've redone the hood area three times on one bar before getting it acceptable. If it's your first time and it looks merely okay instead of perfect, that's honestly fine. You'll do better next time, and bar tape is cheap enough that you can practice. The main things are no big gaps showing bare metal, the tape isn't going to unravel when you ride, and the bar end plugs are secure so they don't fall out on a rough road.
Questions people ask me
Which direction should I wrap the tape, clockwise or counterclockwise?
Stand in front of your bike looking back toward the saddle. On the right bar, wrap counterclockwise so the tape goes from the bottom toward the outside of the bar. On the left bar, wrap clockwise. The goal is that when you're holding the drops while riding, your grip pushes into the overlap rather than catching the edge of the tape. If you wrap it backward, it'll eventually start peeling up under your hands.
How much overlap should I leave between each wrap?
About a quarter to a third of the tape width. If you overlap too much, you'll run out of tape before reaching the stem, and you'll have thick bulky wrapping that feels lumpy. Too little overlap and you'll see gaps with the bare handlebar showing through, plus the tape might slip more easily. I usually err on the side of slightly more overlap rather than less. You can always unwrap and adjust if you're running short before you reach the top.
My bar tape keeps coming loose after a few rides, what am I doing wrong?
Usually it's not enough tension while wrapping, or the finishing tape at the top isn't tight enough. When you wrap, keep steady firm tension on the tape, enough that you feel resistance but not so much that you're stretching it super thin. At the top where you finish, make sure your electrical or finishing tape is wrapped really tight with several layers. Also check that you tucked the end under at an angle rather than leaving a blunt edge. The bar end plugs at the bottom need to be secure too, otherwise the whole wrap can start rotating.